Power steering system
Through some recent connections a method for adding power steering has been sourced up.
Right now procurement of the mid 90's General Motors power steering rack is being worked out. Then I will document the modification of the rack, and the fabrication of the mount needed to install this into a VW beetle chassis.
Before you roll your eyes, thinking this cant be done,... It already has been and with great success. Why you may ask? Im older, and frankly a manual rack is a work out I dont care for while trying to navigate this car in and out of parking lot spaces. Others that have already completed their cars in a way similar to the way I will, have stated power steering is definately something to be desired. An increase in car weight, and extremely wide tires makes this even more prudent.
March 11, 2015
Here are some pictures of the new steering rack prior to it being modified. If you carefully notice the width of the rack is less than the width of the top/back of the hood. So this rack will sit inside the shock towers of the front beam, and the fiberglass body supports. Since the control arms are center mounted they will mount at, and above the center of the frame head. Then they will head outward and down to the splindles.
The ends of the rack body are about 1.5 - 2 inches narrower than the actual hood.
The length of the tie rods may need to be extended a bit to reach the new Porsche bits on the front end.
I will also have to find out if the porsche, or GM tie rod ends can be used, rather than the older VW stuff. By using newer parts, the avaialbility for spares will be much better over time.
Next I will document the clean up, and modification(s) to the rack.
UPDATE (Mar 14, 2015):
First remove the arms from the center connectors with a 15mm wrench.
If you look closely the double male ended stud between the tie rod end, and the tie rod,.. This will be important later!
Remove the end opposite of the input shaft. Remove the metal clamps holding the bellows on.
This will expose the 1.3/4" nut. I used a pair of slip joint pliers to loosen it.
Once the end is removed, remove the 12mm nut and the two seals shown here in the order they came off. This is the hydraulic end to the system. So be ready to make a mess when you pull it off.
These three parts are what connect to the tie rods.
Here is the central ram, and the tie rod mounting point (normally hidden by the bellows). This is where most of the work will be.
Here are all the components layed out for view.
Next will be to get the housing cut, the mount shaft machined, and everything cleaned up to be ready for welding.
Carefully use a hack saw to cut the housing. If you can pre-mark out your cut line using a square it will help you later.
Be careful not to cut into the main rack. When you think your close, tap the outer section with a hammer and it should pop off. Clean up the edges and that part is done.
Use the tie rod bolts to center the plugs. Then mark around them so you kow where to cut.
Keep grinding/filing these areas down until you are at least 3/4 of the depth of the flange.
Now reassemble the rack with the slot opening facing the input shaft. Put the plastic shield in and connect the lines to ensure everything is aligned. The hydraulic lines may end up being a touch too long, but a little tweaking and everything will fit fine.
Leave the bellows off, and leave the hydraulic lines loose. This way the welder can use this setup to keep everything aligned when he/she starts welding your cut.
Its off to the welder now.
This picture may help you visualize how the rack will fit into the sterling. The connection point for the tie rods, mount over the top of the frame head, then head outward and down to the spindles. The input shaft will face horizontally toward the steering wheel.
Now its time to start designing the mounts in autocad.
Once the rack is back from the welder, I can get to building the mounts.
This took one afternoon in my garage with basic tools.
The steering rack has been reversed and is now welded up.
Hard to beleive it was this easy!
A good solid weld cost me a couple dozen doughnuts at the local college welding shop.
Next will be the mounts. The mounts will clamp onoto the the upper and lower front beam pipes. They will stand off the front beam approximately 4 inches, with a triangulated arm on each side to hold the steering rack in exactly the right place no matter how hard the suspension dives.
The beauty of this system, is now the steering components will be modern, and NO MORE BUMP STEER! With the steering mounts in the center of the car, and even on each side, the handling of the car will be immensely better. It might even pass for a modern car while on the road.
